Konoba Mate (00 385 22 771 062) is a rustic restaurant on the quayside, owned by the same family for 45 years and run by two sisters, Anna and Katrina. The grandmother makes grappa. The food is simple local fare, olives, prosciutto and cheese, at £5 a head. Café Arka, by the marina, is the place for a quiet early morning latte or a noisy nightcap.
